Why Bother Sun-Mapping?
Ask any gardener why tomatoes sulk or hydrangeas burn and you’ll hear the same refrain: “Wrong sun exposure.” Yet most of us plant by hunch—“This corner seems sunny”—and hope for the best. A weekend-long sun map turns guesswork into data, saving seasons of trial-and-error, wasted seedlings, and scorched leaves. I created my first map on a whim one Saturday morning; by Sunday night I’d discovered that my “sunniest” spot was shaded three hours a day by the neighbor’s oak. That single insight doubled my pepper crop the very next year.
What You’ll Need (15 min prep)
| Item | Why You Need It |
|---|---|
| Blank yard sketch or graph paper (print from county parcel map or draw) | Base map for notes |
| Smartphone with camera & compass app (or physical compass) | Track sun angles |
| Flags, colored tape or garden markers | Mark observation points |
| Timer or phone alarms | Remind you to log data each hour |
| Highlighters / colored pencils | Shade-code the final map |
| (Optional) Sun-path app like Sun Seeker (iOS/Android) or Sun Surveyor | Simulate seasonal paths |
Gather everything Friday evening so Saturday starts smoothly.
The 48-Hour Game Plan
Saturday – Observation Day
- Stake Observation Points (8 a.m., 15 min)
Pace your lawn and drop a flag every 6–10 ft, or at each bed you plan to build. Number the stakes; those numbers become reference points on your paper map. - First Photo & Note (9 a.m.)
Snap a wide shot of the yard from a fixed spot—your deck or back door—so every hourly photo has the same perspective. On your paper map, circle stake numbers receiving direct sun and shade hatch the rest. - Hour-by-Hour Logging (10 a.m.–5 p.m.)
Set an hourly alarm. Each hour, repeat the photo and mark which stakes sit in full sun, dappled shade, or full shade. Use simple codes: S = sun, PS = partial sun, SH = shade. Don’t overthink—the goal is pattern, not perfection. - Golden-Hour Check (6 p.m.)
The low-angle sun can sneak beneath tree canopies. Record one last data point; you’re done for the day.
Tip: Cloudy spell? Note “cloud” in your log and use the Sun Seeker app to verify where the sun would be. Apps overlay the sun’s path on your camera view, rescuing a gray weekend.
Sunday – Analysis & Map-Making
- Tally Sun Hours (9 a.m., coffee in hand)
For each stake, count the number of hours marked S. Example: stake #4 had sun at 9, 10, 11, noon, and again at 4 → 5 hours. - Color-Code Your Map (30 min)
- Full Sun (6+ hrs) – yellow
- Partial Sun (4–6 hrs) – orange
- Partial Shade (2–4 hrs) – light blue
- Full Shade (<2 hrs) – dark blue
- Interpret & Plan (rest of morning)
- Vegetables/fruits: tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers crave yellow zones.
- Leafy greens & herbs: lettuce, cilantro, chard thrive in orange.
- Shade lovers: hosta, ferns, hydrangea bloom in blues.
- Digital Backup (10 min)
Photograph or scan your finished map. Email it to yourself with the subject “Yard Sun Map YYYY” so you can’t lose it.
Pro Moves & Troubleshooting
1. Account for Seasons
The sun sits higher in June and lower in March. Open your sun-path app, switch to dates three months ahead/behind, and note major shifts. If winter gardening matters, repeat the mapping during equinox (around March 20 or September 22) for a second data layer.
2. Trees With Changing Canopies
Deciduous giants throw deep shade in July but none in April. Scribble “leaf-on” and “leaf-off” notes at trunk bases. Plan spring peas in partial shade, summer spinach where branches leaf out late.
3. Tall Structures & Future Obstructions
Sheds, planned pergolas, even a trampoline can alter light. Sketch future builds faintly in pencil before finalizing beds.
4. Microclimates
Dark fences radiate heat; white siding reflects light. After mapping, stand at each yellow or orange zone mid-afternoon and feel the temperature. Hot pockets suit melons; cool pockets protect lettuce.
Common Mistakes (and My Near-Disasters)
- Mapping One Day Only in Mid-Winter – I almost placed peppers where the sun disappears by 3 p.m. in June.
- Ignoring Shadows Beyond Property Lines – Neighbor’s spruce reaches into your yard by July. Look up and out.
- Relying on Memory Instead of Notes – By noon I forgot my 10 a.m. impressions. The hourly log is non-negotiable.
- Skipping Early Morning – 8 a.m. sun can equal an entire extra hour on east-facing beds; don’t start too late.
Quick Reference: Sun Needs by Crop Category
| Crop Type | Hours of Sun | Example Plants |
|---|---|---|
| Full Sun | 6–8+ | Tomatoes, peppers, squash, roses |
| Partial Sun | 4–6 | Lettuce, beets, raspberries |
| Partial Shade | 2–4 | Spinach, kale, mint, impatiens |
| Full Shade | <2 | Ferns, hosta, astilbe |
Use these ranges to match map colors to planting decisions.
What to Do With Your Map
- Site Beds & Containers – Align raised beds so their long edges face north-south, centering them in yellow/orange stripes.
- Rotate Crops Yearly – Keep your map handy; next year swap heavy feeders (tomatoes) into new sunny soil to reduce disease.
- Plan Irrigation – Yellow zones dry faster; target drip lines or extra mulch.
- Update Annually – Spend one afternoon next spring confirming that big trees or structures haven’t altered shade.
Final 60-Second Recap
Friday: print or draw a yard plan, gather tools.
Saturday: photograph and mark sun/shade each hour 9 a.m.–6 p.m.
Sunday: total sun hours per spot, color-code, match crops to zones, sketch future beds.
In one weekend you’ll transform from hopeful planter to light-savvy landscape designer—no fancy software, no pricey consultants, just deliberate observation. The investment? Roughly five hours of light yardwork and maybe a sun-path app latte’s worth of cash. The payoff? Seasons of healthier plants, bigger harvests, and a garden that feels custom-tuned to the star that makes it all possible.
Grab your compass, set those phone alarms, and let the sun show you where your dream garden really lives. Happy mapping!
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